好普洱的标准

　　如果有一种全球通用的语言，那一定是“茶”。无论你来自哪里，我们都可以因为一杯茶，共享一段美好的时光。4月19日晚，来自五湖四海的朋友相聚在被称为法国“孔子学院”的昆明“法语联盟”，觥筹交错，茶香四溢，伴着优美的中西和乐，共同度过了一个美妙的夜晚，普洱茶就这样曼妙地打开了...

　　If there is an universal language, that must be tea. No matter where are you from, we can sit down and share some sweet tea time. On April 19th, we gathered together in Kunming Alliance Francaise, accompanied by romantic wine and aromatic tea, listened to beautiful the western and Chinese traditional tutti, spent a wonderful and pleasant evening, we all astonished that how interesting and romantic to enjoy pu-erh tea this way!

　　此次活动是由“葡言茶语”全程策划，昆明法语联盟，六山贺开古茶庄园，杰曦法国葡萄酒，普洱杂志联合承办的“葡萄酒对话普洱茶”的主题系列开幕式。通过每月一次的主题论坛，开展普洱茶与葡萄酒的深入对话，从而找到更多普洱茶行业的参考标准和品牌推广途径。

　　Through the series of conferences monthly hosted by Discovercha together with Kunming Alliance Francais, Hekai Ancient Tea Estate, JieXi French Wine and Pu-erh Magazine, we aim to popularize French wine culture, and most importantly to seek for some solutions or standards which will work on Pu-erh industry.

　　葡言茶语

　　当一些野生的水果自然成熟，落地发酵，发生了美妙的变化，自然的酿制成了天然的美酒，于是，人类发明了酒。最早的酿酒坊可以追逐到6000多年前的古亚美尼亚，之后逐渐了有葡萄酒。到了古埃及时代，法老文明的兴起，因为葡萄酒的颜色与人类的血液及其相似，被用于祭祀，这样的习惯沿袭到古希腊和犹太教中。到了古罗马时代，帝国的征战和扩张，领土几乎覆盖了整个欧洲，所到之处，也是葡萄酒的所及之地，包括今天大家耳熟能详的法国、德国、意大利、西班牙、葡萄牙等。经过漫长的黑暗中世纪，1492年，哥伦布开启了航海环球旅行，意外地发现了美洲，葡萄酒因此也被跨越海洋带到了美洲。随后的荷兰、法国的殖民扩张，将葡萄酒随之带到了北美，南非，澳大利亚，新西兰等，葡萄酒从此在全世界开花结果，散发着诱人的酒香。

　　Imagine how wine was invented? When some wild fruits fell off onto the ground, and got fermented, that became the initial wine. The earliest winery can be dated back to 6000 years ago in ancient Armenia, then gradually, wine was invented. In ancient Egypt era, because of the risen of Pharaoh, wine was used as the important sacrament due to its resemblance to blood. Such customs were inherited through ancient Greek, used in Judaism as well. However, wine was mainly spread along Mediterranean sea until during the Ancient Rome time, with the expansion and colony of Rome Empire, wine reached everywhere in Europe, including France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Portugal, etc. During the dark Middle Ages, wine making was perfected as well because of development and expansion of church. In 1492, Columbus discovered the New World, therefore, wine landed in other new continent. With European further colony and conquest, wine reached further south America, north America, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, almost reached each corner of the world, conquered the whole earth.

　　法语联盟

　　这故事是不是似曾相识呢？如果说葡萄酒扮演的是征服者的角色，随着帝国的变化和世界版图的改变而改变，那么，茶则更多的是扮演了和平使者的角色。“神农尝百草，日遇七十二毒，得一荼而解之。”茶，因其药用功能被发现，被利用，后被用于祭祀，又因佛家、道家的发展而发展，兴盛而繁荣。到了唐代，诞生了伟大的茶圣陆羽，成书《茶经》，流传千史；大唐茶诗，百余文人儒士共筑繁荣；茶马古道将茶传入边疆少数民族；龙团凤饼，茶文化登峰造极，宋氏王朝成也败也。宋时，荣西禅师两渡中国，将茶带入日本，完成了《吃茶养生记》，成就了日本茶道。13世纪，沿着茶马古道大篷车，茶传入蒙古，后逐渐传入俄罗斯。大航海时代，沿着海上丝绸之路，绕过好望角，葡萄牙和荷兰将茶引入欧洲，成为时尚，葡萄牙公主凯瑟琳下嫁英王查理二世，英式下午茶因此而成名。东印度公司，更是为英国创造了巨额财富，缔造了日不落帝国。殖民当然也不总是一帆风顺的，波士顿倾茶事件拉响了美国独立战争的号角。英国因为对茶之瘾，白银外流，财政赤字，于是向中国倾销鸦片，几十年后，国人终于觉醒，发动了虎门销烟，因此点燃了第一次鸦片战争的战火，从此拉开了中国的近代史。茶，从另外一个方面改变了全世界的版图！

　　Does it sound similar? If wine played the role of conqueror, then tea played the role of peace messenger. Tea was found and used as medicine initially, then used in sacrifice later too. It fluctuated with the development of Buddhism and Zen. Until Tang dynasty, the birth of tea saint Luyu achieved the great Tea Classics, widely spread even now. The prosperous and stable economy in Tang had bloomed the tea culture, gave birth to lots of tea literature and poets, tea was brought to border minorities along the Ancient Tea Horse Road at that time, changed their life. After that, tea culture in Song dynasty reached its heyday, whisked tea and tea drama were the most popular tea among royals and nobles classes. Meanwhile, Eisai came to China twice, brought tea and tea seeds to Japan, started Japanese tea and promoted Song whisked tea. During the Maritime Navigation Era, tea was imported by Portugal and Holland into Europe, explored its new land. Since Princess Catherine married CharlieⅡ, had popularized the afternoon tea in whole Britain. The British East Indian company earned immense amount of fortune by trading tea and other eastern goods, assisted in building the Empire of United Kingdom. Tea is tender and gentle, but it can cause evil and ambition. In order to fight again UK’s high tax and manipulation, the Boston Tea Party throw the Britain’s tea away into the bay, fueling the American Revolution. On the other side, Britain became addicted to tea, spent vast money on Chinese tea, in order to balance the finance deficit, they successfully dumped opium into China. In decades of years, finally, China said no, and burnt the opium, therefore caused the first Opium War(1840 - 1842), China entered modern history. It’s no hard to see , tea magically changed the world.

　　六大茶山

　　无独有偶，茶与酒都承载了东西方的文化、艺术、哲学思想，一盏茶是天地的精华，一辈酒是西方的智慧。它们都是上天赐予人类的礼物，经过人类之手，制成了最美的甘露和佳酿。哲学家柏拉图、亚里士多德、伏尔泰都曾是葡萄酒的狂热爱好者，美酒为其酝酿了杰出的哲学思想，狄德罗的《我饮故我在》成为今天最畅销的葡萄酒哲学向导；在中国，不管琴棋书画诗歌茶，还是柴米油盐酱醋茶，茶都是生活中非常重要的一部分，承载了儒释道的东方哲学。我们需要时刻保持空杯的状态，斟上1/4到1/3的葡萄酒于酒杯，才能更好的享受其芬芳和甘醇；也要懂得拿起、放下的生活智慧，活在当下，才不负人生。

　　Coincidently, both wine and tea carry the cultures, arts and philosophies, a cup of tea is the essence of nature, and a glass of wine is the wisdom of the west. They are the best gifts, granted by nature, through mankind, turn into the best liquid for us. Philosophers like Plato, Aristotle, Voltaire are wine lovers, I drink therefore I am: A Philosopher's Guide to Wine wrote by Roger Scruton, is a great book inspires many drinkers. Wine indeed gives birth to abundant of philosophy thoughts, so does tea. In China, tea can be elegant as guqin, chess, calligraphy, painting, poetry, music; tea can be ordinary as firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, it plays the most important part to us, carries the eastern wisdom of Confucianism, Zen and Buddhism. It is necessary that we keep humble, so we are able to enjoy the life and accept more, just like that when we take 1/4 to 1/3 glass of wine to enjoy it better. It is necessary that we know how to accept some imperfection and let it go. Enjoy the moment is the wise choice.

　　杰曦法国

　　1855年，为了能在巴黎世界博览会上向世界弘扬法国优质的葡萄酒，拿破仑三世下令对波尔多酒庄进行分级。于是肩负皇命的波尔多商会委托波尔多经纪人联合会遴选出最好的葡萄酒。经纪人联合会将最好的酒庄分为了五个等级，列出名单上呈。由此诞生了历史上首个被公认的葡萄酒庄分级制度。作为法国葡萄酒核心产区的地位，受益于此的这些波尔多名庄h和法国葡萄酒也因此而享誉全世界。

　　In 1855, Napoleon III, emperor of France, decided to throw a Universal Exposition in Paris, and wanted to represent French fine wine. He required Bordeaux's Chamber of Commerce to arrange an exhibit. The members of the chamber knew a hornet's nest when they saw one, so they passed the buck. They agreed, according to their records, to present "all our crus classés, up to the fifth-growths," but asked the Syndicat of Courtiers, an organization of wine merchants, to draw up "an exact and complete list of all the red wines of the Gironde that specifies in which class they belong." Curiously, all of the courtiers' selections came from the Médoc, with the single exception of Haut-Brion (they also ranked the sweet white wines of Sauternes and Barsac). However, 1855 classification has leaded French wine world widely famous and popular.

　　茶是最好的老师

　　如果将目光移向中国的西南边陲云南，普洱茶其实早在其100多年前，已经在十二版纳区域形成了经济、文化中心，“改土归流”的成功，1729年（清雍正七年）普洱府的成立，倚傍的兴盛，易武的崛起，普洱茶沿着茶马古道，远销海外。嘉庆四年《滇海虞衡志》：“普茶名重于天下，此滇之所以为产而资利赖者也。出普洱属六茶山：一曰攸乐，二曰革登，三曰倚邦，四曰莽枝，五曰蛮砖，六曰慢撒，周八百里，入山作茶者数十万人。茶客收买，运于各处。每盈路，可谓大钱粮矣。”

　　In south-west China, pu-erh tea had gained its fame even 100 earlier than that, established the center of economy and culture. In 1729(the 7th year of Yongzheng throne), because of the successful reform, the establishment of Pu’er government(in current Ning’Er county), later on the prosperity of Yibang and Yiwu(Old name is Mansha), pu-erh tea was taken along the Ancient Tea Horse Road, transported abroad already. Dian Hai Yu Hen Zhi(Yunnan chorography wrote by Tancui in 1798, the 4th year of JiaQing emperor), recorded that pu’erh tea was famous, therefore Yunnan businessmen made lots of fortune. There were six mountains produced pu’erh tea, which were Youle, Gedeng, Yibang, Mangzhi, Mansha, and ten thousand of people flooded into mountain from the surrounding 800 miles. They purchased tea, and sold in other cities, as a result, earned big money.

　　同行柯锋先生分享“茶园分级体系”

　　200多年过去了，经历了历史的滚滚红尘，法国葡萄酒成为风靡全世界高品质葡萄酒的代言人，而普洱茶，经历了跌宕起伏的年代，虽然贵为国饮，但其整个产业化生产才刚刚起步。正如沙龙现场的朋友反映的一样，我们连好茶的标准是什么，都没有办法简单回答，“古树”、“纯料”、“单株”“老茶”、“冰岛”、“老班章”等满天飞却真假难辨，最直接的原因就是标准的缺失和监管的低效，才导致地理标志产品规则被忽视，或者被滥用，从而使得市场混乱，三无产品横行，普洱茶的品牌的诚信度和公信力亟待提高。

　　However, over 200 hundreds of years passed, French wine has definitely conquered the whole world, been granted the crown of best wine, pu-erh tea is nationally popular although, however its industrialized development just started. It is an agreeable truth that pu-erh tea is valuable, worthwhile for collection and investment, but how do we know it is a good cake of tea since the labels are not informative, fake branded teas like ancient tea tree, pure material, single tree, old tea, Bingdao, Laobanzhang, are filled in the market. Due to the lack of concrete standards and efficient supervise, the regulations of Geographic Indication Products do not guarantee anything currently, and that ruins the whole pu-erh industry.

　　我们热爱中国的国粹普洱茶，我们已经准备好为普洱茶倾注一生。“好茶的标准是什么？”，从这个问题出发，六山努力了17年。我们列出了一系列的主题，通过每月一次主题的深入对话，9月普洱茶法国之行，中法双方代表企业的共同参与，志同道合的同行共同行动，我们相信，在普及葡萄酒文化的同时，也一定可以寻找到更适合普洱茶的标准。

　　We love pu-erh tea, we are ready to devote the whole life to it. Back to the initial question of what are the standards of good pu-erh tea, we listed the following subjects.Through monthly conference-dialogue wine and tea, including one conference in France in September, both Chinese and French tea companies and organizations participation, and all the individuals and tea companies in common interests take each active role, we believe that, we are able to provide better standards for pu-erh tea and Yunnan tea.

　　“普洱茶对话葡萄酒”论坛起航了，本系列论坛由杰曦法国葡萄酒引进的来自AOC原产地教皇新堡魅梦干红葡萄酒和六山贺开古茶庄园有机普洱茶全程赞助。伴着书香、茶香和酒香，看似小小的舞台，因为有热爱普洱茶、热爱葡萄酒、热爱中法文化的你们的参与，我们将共筑一个大大的梦想。随着六山贺开古茶庄园即将竣工投产，古茶庄园即将迎来新的篇章。

　　The Series of Conference are sponsored by les Mementes AOC Chateauneuf du Pape and Hekai Ancient Tea Estate Organic Tea. It might be a small stage, it might be a small dream, with your supporting and attending, together, the dream will be ambitious and come true. We believe that Hekai Ancient Tea Estate will step into another new page soon.

　　普洱茶如今已经走进很多人的生活，成为大家日常品饮的一部分。随之而来的，是一些茶友的疑惑，评鉴好普洱茶的标准到底有哪些呢？对于普洱茶，很多朋友认为水深，尤其是正处于刚步入普洱茶大门的朋友更是摸不着头脑，一山一味，越陈越香，加之看到市场上众多价格不一的茶品，更是不知道该如何下手，买茶全靠蒙。一款优质的普洱茶在色、香、味、形上都有什么表现，我们一起来了解一下，以供茶友们在选购茶叶的时候参考。

对于美的东西，人类其实都有共同的点，举个例子，世界十大小姐选美，大概全世界的男人都觉得美。

于美，大致相同，其实这就是标准。

落实到普洱，道理一样，我们都喜欢审美，外形的美，汤色的美，香味的美，滋味的美，以及喝到嘴里的愉悦。

那么，问题还是存在，普洱茶 到底有没有标准呢？或者说好的茶到底有没有标准呢？

是不是在疑问，那到底怎样的茶才算一款好茶？

“质量好的，适合自己的。”

是不是经常听到，或者自己也会说到？ 在这样说的时候，我们说的好茶到底是什么呢？

实际上，茶叶作为一种产品，其根本上是一个“过程的结果”，质量则是指产品的一组固有特性满足要求的程度，这组固有特性，既包含外在的，也包含内在的；所要满足的要求，根据情况不同判断依据不同：包括以“符合”现行标准的程度作为衡量依据（如：国际标准、国标、省标、企业标准等），和（或）适合顾客需要的程度作为衡量的依据。

整个茶叶质量，是生产管理体系质量、过程质量与产品质量的总和。

所以，当我们谈质量时，我们谈的不仅仅是眼前的这一片茶，更是这片茶背后的生产把控、管理体系、标准执行。

所以，好的质量，需要一个好的管理体系、严格的过程把控和出厂检验。

以咱们大益茶为例：

（一）关于管理体系质量：要是一个能够实现全面质量管理的体系。

2008年,勐海茶厂通过ISO9001、HACCP管理体系认证，虽然管理体系的认证是企业出于自愿进行的认证，非强制性认证，不能以此说明产品质量的好坏，产品质量的好坏还是需要通过各类检验、检查来保证，但至少是对大益管理体系管理水平的一种认可。保证了企业质量管理的基础运行。

该标准标准强调对各部门的职责权限进行明确划分、计划和协调，而使企业能有效地、有秩序地开展给各项活动，保证工作顺利进行。强调管理层的介入，强调管理层的介入，强调不断的审核及监督，强调全体员工的参与及培训，强调文化管理，以保证管理系统运行的正规性，连续性。

因此09年开始，勐海茶厂将每年的3月份定为产品“质量月”，积极采取各种措施加强质量管理活动

（二）关于过程质量的把控——通过过程的严格把控，形成符合规定且满足消费者需求的产品质量。

大益普洱茶加工工艺流程为：鲜叶——毛茶——发酵（熟茶）——筛分——拣剔——拼配——蒸压干燥（紧压茶）——包装——成品

体现在生产工序上，分解为：毛茶初制/毛茶收购——发酵——备料——成型——包装——成品管理

工序过程中的质量要求每一道工序都具备：

1、检验标准及操作细则；

2、对记录的要求；

3、对现场规范的要求；

4、严格考核并落实改进的要求。

通过对每一道工序的规范管理，做到：

1、记录详细，有迹可循；

2、上下流程互为监督；

3、人员、环境清洁卫生；

4、符合国家/企业对各工序的标准；

5、管理的连续性且可改进。

以包装和成型工序为例：

成型工序需要做好净含量、外形、潮水、烘制 的质量控制，同时也要求现场要做到：工作人员按要求穿戴工作帽、鞋套；劳动工具及个人物品摆放合理，无乱摆乱放现象；工作区域无明显的编织袋丝、扫把毛、口袋、积水、灰尘等；蚊、虫防护设施使用合理规范；无其它影响茶叶质量的现象。

包装工序则要做好包装材料、内包装、外包装、现场规范、记录填写方面的考核把关。

（三）关于产品质量的定位——出厂检验合格后的产品进入成品销售环节，走上我们的茶桌。

基本要求：品质正常，无劣变、无异味。洁净，不含非茶类夹杂物。不加任何添加剂。

感官品质：符合国标相应级别内质要求。

这一切共同保证了大益茶品质的屡被认可。

于2015年荣获云南省人民政府质量奖，该奖项为云南省内质量领域最高荣誉。

说了这么多，不论是产品的安全性，合规性，管理的规范性，持续性，品质的可控性，稳定性，所提供给我们的其实无非是对于一款产品，一个企业的信任感和安全感。

“普洱茶”国家标准所指的是，普洱茶必须以地理标志保护范围内的云南大叶种晒青茶为原料，并且在地理标志保护范围内采用特定的加工工艺制成，才是普洱茶。

由国家质检总局规定的普洱茶地理标志产品保护范围是:云南省昆明市、楚雄州、玉溪市、红河州、文山州、普洱市、西双版纳州、大理州、保市、德宏州、临沧市等11个州市所属的639个乡镇。

非上述地理标志保护范围内地区生产的茶不能叫普洱茶，云南茶企业到上述地理标志保护范围外的地区购买茶箐，以此为原料做成的茶也不能叫普洱茶。

好茶的标准都有其共同之处，不仅仅是口腔的感受，身体也有感受，不管是谈茶气也好，谈回甘也好，其实都是说明茶叶本身的内含物质在起作用。

一款好的茶，原料是关键，在看它的拼配技术，如果这两种都达到的话，那么这款茶绝对值得存放。

于我而言，好茶的标准，第一是真，第二是安全卫生。对于新茶友要如何选择一款好的普洱茶，最好是选知名大厂出的茶，可以保证茶的质量，安全卫生。

至于口感的选择，这是习惯，是身体的各种感受，更是茶汤喝到肚子里的累积。

普洱茶如今是所有茶叶当中知名度最高的茶叶。

“勐海茶厂”生产的大益普洱茶，有（7572、7542、7262、7592、8582、8592、7672、7692等）、勐海沱茶、普洱沱茶、普洱砖茶、女儿贡茶、宫廷普洱，几十年来一直被业内推崇为经典普洱茶的代表，成为无数茶人竞相收藏的普洱茶珍品

普洱茶的独特茶性，决定了其内含物质饱满，回甘不仅仅是一杯茶赋予的感受，更是时间转化的一个过程，是一个逐渐提高的层次，给品饮者带来时光转化的乐趣，享受普洱茶的特殊魅力。